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Our First Insights into a Vibrant Community

Harlem's 116th street is a center of the vibrant West African culture created by immigrants from Senegal and other francophone nations of West Africa. The streets are filled with shops carrying Senegalese DVD’s, music, clothes, perfumes, and jewelry. There are also posters and flyers scattered about, advertising the Senegalese Independence Day celebration on April 7th at the Harlem Karate Club on 2234 3rd Ave.

On our first visit to the Association of the Senegalese in America, we were warmly welcomed by everyone and were even invited to taste the national dish of Senegal, ceebu jen or Thiebu Djen. Through Mr. Kaaw Sow, the secretary of the Senegalese Association in America, we learned more about Senegalese food and the culture on 116th St.

Contents

People-Watching

The Senegalese on 116th St. are very social. Many greet each other as they walk down the street, and even strangers are warmly welcomed. At the Senegalese Association, almost every person who entered greeted us. One man even apologized to us for not saying "hello" right away. In this neighborhood, it is as if everyone is a part of the same family. Conversations among the people are not limited to “Hi, how are you?” Rather, they talk more at length about their families, jobs, and activities.

As soon as the weather gets warm, everyone comes outside during the day. They sit on stoops and socialize while listening to music, and the children of the community can also be found outside, playing tag. The street vendors could easily be confused with their relaxing neighbors as they work and mingle at the same time. There is much interaction among businesses, as well. Many times we’ve witnessed cashiers from convenience stores stop for a lunch break at a nearby Senegalese restaurant. Even as it starts to get dark, people stay outside. Groups of friends usually go out to dinner after the workday and enjoy each other’s company.

Kilimanjaro Fashions

The Senegalese are known for their the bright and distinctive clothing. Both men and women wear boubous, which are long, brightly patterned garments with embroidered designs. The men wear trousers under the boubous, along with a wool hat or a fez, and pointy leather shoes. The women wear long skirts under their boubous; they also wear long shawls over their shoulders and headpieces that cover their hair.

Many of the young people on 116th St. distinguish themselves from their parents and grandparents, visibly displaying the different degrees of assimilation into American life and the disparity between the two generations. Unlike the older generation, young teens like to be trendy and wear what is in style today in American fashion. Much of this clothing can be seen along the windows of contemporary clothing stores such as N and Marilyn’s.

Everyone's Favorite Topic: Food

Restaurant Le Baobab

There are many restaurants to choose from on 116th St., including many Senegalese restaurants, such as Sokhna and Le Baobob. We dined at a Senegalese restaurant called Africa Kiné located at 256 W 116th St. We personally tried and highly recommended the national dish: ceebu-jen, comprised of rice, fish, cabbage and spices. There was also the chicken yassa, which we tried on a whim. The dishes were delectable and gave off potent smells of cloves, onions, tamarind and spices. The main components were rice and fish, both essential parts of a Senegalese diet.

Other dishes were also available, such as the thiebu-yap, lamb served with rice. The beverages on the menu were very appealing and exotic. A popular drink, bissap, is made from the red hibiscus flower; another juice called bui is made from the fruit of the baobab (in French, pain de singe or ‘monkey bread’). Other drinks included ginger juice, guava juice, and mango juice. As we enjoyed our meal, the background was filled with Senegalese music and modern West African rap. Although we didn’t eat out of a bowl with our hands like they do in Senegal, the music and food made for an very authentic experience at Africa Kiné.

Maffé, a stew made from peanuts, is one of the most popular Senegalese dishes, especially among Americans:


Senegalese Maffé
Chicken and vegetable stew dressed with seasoning and peanut butter sauce

Ingredients:

Maffé

1 3lb chicken cut into pieces

½ cup of peanut oil

1 large Spanish onion diced

2 plum tomatoes peeled, chopped

4 cups of chicken stock

2 tablespoons of tomato paste

Salt to taste

Freshly ground white pepper to taste

¾ cup of natural peanut butter

4 peeled carrots cut into large dice

4 peeled turnips cut into large dice

½ teaspoon of cayenne pepper

1 small head of green cabbage chopped into 1” pieces

2 large peeled sweet potatoes cut into 1” pieces

Chopped roasted peanuts for garnish


Directions:

Season chicken and brown in oil in a large heavy pot. Add onions and tomatoes. In separate pot heat chicken stock and whisk in tomato paste. Thin peanut butter slightly with hot liquid and add all liquids to pot with chicken. Reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Add vegetables and cook until chicken and vegetables are tender, approximately 45 minutes. Season to taste with salt, cayenne, and ground white pepper. Garnish with peanuts.

source: http://fooddownunder.com/cgi-bin/recipe.cgi?r=227839


Cooking with the Senegalese

We were so intrigued by the culture and the food of the Senegalese that we took a Cooking Class on how to cook the typical and traditional dish.

The International Language of Music

The music that we were exposed to at Africa Kiné was a mixture of Senegalese and African music, which we found very unique and made us want to explore more of it. We didn’t have to walk very far to fulfill this desire. Music is a large part of the community environment and can easily be heard from the outside of the stores and homes. A lot of the music seemed to be Islamic hymns, but there was also fast, vibrant music coming from different shops. Mbalax music is an example of the very energized music of the Senegalese people. The lyrics of mbalax music mostly speak of historical stories, morality, and love.

Around the neighborhood, there were postcard advertisements about the Waaw Band, a group based in NYC that plays mbalax music. However, Senegalese music isn’t by any means confined to a Senegalese community: many famous artists of Senegal have performed with their American popularity equivalent. For example, Senegalese superstar Youssou N’Dour has performed with both American and international performers such as Peter Gabriel, Sting, Neneh Cherry, Branford Marsalis, and Wyclef Jean. His music has won him praise with an American audience in the form of an album that went platinum twelve years ago, and, more recently, winning a Grammy two years ago. The rap and R&B artist Akon, whose music can be heard upon turning on any American station, is an example of contemporary work that touches the youth. To our surprise Akon, is a citizen of Senegal and the United States. He has performed in Senegal, but there his music wasn’t given the same acclaim that it has received in America. Another musician from Senegal is Baaba Maal. He is a Fulani, the second largest ethnic group among the Senegalese. He has received much attention for his upbeat music that fuses various genres such as pop and dance.

What Will a Day at the Market Bring?

Much of the Senegalese culture is reflected in its market and shop industries. Stores, such as Sopey Cheikhoul Kadim (247 W. 116th) and the Malcolm Shabazz Harlem Market located on 52 W. 116th St. sell a variety of Muslim books, music, films, clothing, and artwork. A normal day of shopping can provide a revealing look into the Senegalese life.

Each store on 116th street has at least one thing in common: they all sell movies. Mr. Sow, from the Senegalese Association, told us how the Senegalese are making a name for themselves in the movie business. An upcoming movie called Amazing Grace features the singing sensation, Youssou N’Dour. Famous Senegalese directors include Ousmane Sembene, Djibril Diop Mamabety, and Khady Sylla.

One film in particular, Little Senegal, has gained much praise in many film festivals, including the Berlin International Film Festival and the Milan African Film Festival. Rachid Bouchareb directed this film, which was released in 2002. It tells of the life of a Senegalese immigrant, Alloune, who travels to the U.S. to learn about his ancestors in the African slave trade and ends up in Harlem, NY, where he meets his family and falls in love.

There is a wide selection of art pieces in the shops and market that ranges from jewelry to wood sculptures. A well-known art form from Senegal is the creation of paintings on glass, known as suwers. These paintings tell stories of everyday life. Another form of art that can be seen are sand paintings.

Senegalese musical instruments are also considered works of art. They come in many shapes and sizes, with ornate patterns and strings of beads. String instruments include the kora and the xalam. Drums are a major part of Senegalese music, which explains why there are so many to choose from: sabar, the tama, the tabala, and the djembe.

Celebrate Good Times…

What we have noticed during our time at the Senegalese Association is that when people are not working, they like to gather together and celebrate. One of their most important days is Cheikh Amadou Bamba Day, named for the founder of the Mouride brotherhood. Many of the Senegalese are Mourides, which means that they practice Sufism. The Mouride brotherhood was founded by Cheikh Amadou Bamba in the 19th century. Bamba is a crucial figure for the Mourides because he stood against the French colonial authorities and prayed in front of them. In July, his day is celebrated and remembered by many Muslims in New York. Some of the most important days of the year for Mourides are:

a. Cheikh Anta Diop: February 6th-7th
b. International Women’s Day: March 8th
c. Senegal’s Independence Day: April 4th
d. Summer picnics and dance parties
e. Cheikh Amadou Bamba Day: July

In March, the Senegalese Association held a Women’s Day Celebration to commemorate all of the strong, hard-working women in the community. According to Mr. Sow, the party lasted until 5 am! Another celebration that draws many together is the Senegalese Independence Day. Although the day fell on April 4th, a workday here in the United States, it was celebrated on April 7th. Both of these events gave the Senegalese on 116th St. the opportunity to come together and enjoy their culture.

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