| wiki | search |
Main Page | Groups and Assignments | Bios | History | Harlem | Diversity Today | Help
A Bit of History
Soul food is deeply intertwined with the history of black Americans as a whole, and the black community in New York City in particular. Beyond being a cultural staple noted for fried chicken, collared greens, and buttered cornbread, we can find that soul food has shaped the Southern Black American experience dating back to the first African slaves in America. The conception of soul food was not immediate; it came from the blending of what blacks ate in their native country and what was available to them as slaves. These foods were then cooked in both a traditional and nontraditional manner to make the best of what they had.
Soul Food In NYC
Soul Food is an integral part of Black New York. At its very heart, Harlem, soul food means a lot to many black residents. Yet modern times means a tide of 'healthy eaters' who veer away from traditionally fatty soul food. Struggle for the Soul Food of Harlem is an interesting New York Times documentary made in July 2007. The documentary asks--and attempts to answer--the question above. It focuses on the reasons behind and reactions to the closing of Copeland's Restaurant, an infamous Harlem restaurant. Interestingly, even Calvin Copeland, founder of the restaurant under his name, says that "I would rather anybody not eat [soul food] everyday, but some people do!" The documentary also makes an interesting observation: "Many of [Copeland's] best customers over recent years have been European tourists looking for gospel brunch and suburbanites on a nostalgia trip." Is this really true?
|
Sylvia's When we got to Harlem, we worked our way through the busy commercialized area to the quieter part of the neighborhood where Sylvia's was located. We walked in and were instantly confused. The room we were in looked like a diner and customers were sitting on stools around a large counter. Then we looked to the left and saw two more rooms where there were actual tables. We waited for someone to seat us and it got up to the point that we thought it was self-seating day. Finally, a friendly man in a sharp suit eventually ran up to us, apologized, and kindly sat us at a side table. Most of the time we were waiting, for the waiter, for the food, for the bill. But the food was worth it! The cornbread was the BEST cornbread I have ever had (I finally now know why people argue about which restaurant has the best cornbread). The meat was falling off the bones of the barbecue ribs and smothered chicken--and everything had amazing flavor, albeit on the salty and buttery side. The sides that came with the entree made it a complete dish. The peach cobbler however, was too goopy, but a satisfying dessert. Overall, I felt that the service was friendly, but slow. I really felt at ease after eating the food, and it was a comforting atmosphere. Funny enough, it was after we arrived that I began to see a more diverse crowd: an Italian tourist group came and went after getting drinks at the bar (yes the restaurant was an all-in-one diner, bar, buffet, and mass seating), groups of dignified elderly women, adults with their presumably out-of-town parents, several gawky college kids--all of whom were white. There was also groups of black families that were there before us, and several black businessmen here for some satisfying lunch. We only saw one Chinese man, and he disappeared as quickly as he came. Still, even though I didn't quite fit in, I didn't feel like a sore thumb. It seems that many people of all backgrounds have come to know and enjoy soul food. Hopefully, they are eating in moderation! |   |     |
The Pink Teacup
My second soul food expedition was on Saturday (May 3). This time, we went to the west village, which isn't known for soul food, but the restaurant's name The Pink Teacup, caught my eye. I wanted to see if this place could compete with Sylvia's and this time I went with Jen and Johnson, my brother.
It was much more confusing navigating the streets of the west village. When we finally got to 42 Grove Street, I was ready for a full meal and The Pink Teacup was ready to serve. Our 2pm 'dinner' came with soup, salad, biscuits, an entree with our choice of 2 vegetable sides, and bread pudding. When we first got in, we were greeted with jukebox hip hop music and a young waiter (compared to the matronly/paternal ones at Sylvia's). He took our orders and after the starters, all our dishes were brought out at once (same as at Sylvia's). It seems the laid-back service was universal. Jen found the portions more realistic compared to the bounty of Sylvia's, and (you might have guessed it), the food could not rival what I ate at the Sylvia's. I thought the best dish was Jen's barbecue chicken, with its sweet and tangy sauce. I found Joh's fried chicken too crunchy & chewy. My smothered pork chop was pretty good, but the vegetable sides were overwhelmingly salty. The biscuits seemed to come from Pillsbury. Nonetheless, the hot out of the oven bread pudding was the redeeming part of the meal! It was sweet and flavorful and I wanted more.
The restaurant itself was extremely cozy; its size is comparable to that of a high school classroom, and I sat along the wall on a communal bench. Since it was the west village, there were younger hipper adults (and notably more couples) eating among the older crowd. The restaurant also had its obvious regulars, both black and white. It was a upbeat, casual atmosphere and once the music died down, we was still free to talk and laugh (loudly!). Once again, we were the only Chinese 'kids' there, but it wasn't so bad because it was the west village after all. Ultimately, I learned that going to a soul food restaurant was not a daunting feat--it was rather enjoyable and I probably gained several pounds. Soul food really leaves one with warm, happy feelings inside and out. Sylvia's and The Pink Teacup would be great to go eat with good (patient) company. :]
"There are many stereotypes associated with soul food, but I always wondered what was fact and what was fiction. I have heard that soul food consisted solely of fried or sweet dishes- perhaps a combination of both. As it turns out, soul food does include many fried and sweet dishes, but there is more substance to the genre- a mixture of salty, tangy, and surprising foods with interesting colors and texture. The food leaves one feeling full and satisfied after the meal as the servings are generally large and generous. The atmosphere of the restaurant we dined at was quirky; the one room joint was dimly lit and lined with portraits of Martin Luther, which I thought could have been better decorated, but the minimalism contributed to the relaxed aura and dining experience. I am glad that I satisfied my curiosity about what exactly soul food was, and would definitely like to try the food again." - Joh
 |  |  | 
|
 |
Amy Ruth's 113W 116th St Harlem, New York, 10026 http://www.amyruthsharlem.com Miss Mamie's Spoonbread Too Restaurant 366 W 110th St New York, NY 10025 http://www.spoonbreadinc.com/miss_mamies.htm Rack and Soul 2818 Broadway New York, NY 10025 http://www.rackandsoul.com Miss Maude's Spoonbread Too Restaurant 547 Lenox Ave, bt. 137th &138th St http://www.spoonbreadinc.com/miss_maudes.htm The Pink Teacup 42 Grove St. New York, NY 10014 http://www.thepinkteacup.com/ | 
|
