Woodhaven

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Woodhaven

With one the largest tree populations in Queens, the most ethnically diverse county in America, and its beautiful sub-urban appearance, Woodhaven, once known as Woodville, is a remarkable New York City middle-class neighborhood with a very interesting history. From having the first dirt horse racing track in New York City, a curious novelty in the mid 19th century, to cherishing the magnificent Forest Park, the third largest park in Queens County, Woodhaven offers an amazing array of attractions to both residents and visitors. [1] The evolution and growth of Woodhaven are reflected in its people, demographics, businesses, industries and institutions—all important components in the study which shows patterns of movement and changes of early immigrants, who brought their customs and traditions, religions and their aspirations to achieve the American dream. While Woodhaven’s early settlers were comprised mostly of Germans, Italians and Irishmen, its demographics has changed over the course of time to include newer and diverse immigrants from other parts of the world, including Asia and Latin America. Today, Woodhaven, which has a population about 30,000 with a median income approximately $50,000, is located in western Queens and is bordered by Forest Park and Park Lane South to the north, Richmond Hill to the east, Ozone Park to the south at Atlantic Avenue and the border of Brooklyn to the west. [2]



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Woodhaven: A Historical Overview

Welcome signage at Woodhaven Blvd under J & Z elevated train tracks on Jamaica Avenue.
Welcome signage at Woodhaven Blvd under J & Z elevated train tracks on Jamaica Avenue.


Woodhaven was birthed in the area adjoining the Brooklyn and Queens border near Cypress Hills. Its popularity grew out of its reputation to showcase horse racing and was the birthplace of three racetracks—Union Course, Centerville and Aqueduct. Before the Civil War, the pride of southern planters was to raise blooded horse and transport them north to race at New York racetracks which were established on the edges of the city. In 1821, Union Course was established just outside the settled portion of Brooklyn, an extension west of 79th street and east of 84th street and bordered by Jamaica Avenue on the north and Atlantic Avenue on the south. [3]


In spite of earlier efforts at establishing Woodhaven, it was the magnificent work of a Connecticut Yankee named John R. Pitkin, who was officially credited with founding this neighborhood in 1835. Pitkin happened to visit New Lots in East New York, Brooklyn, and was so impressed with what he saw that he developed and founded this zone that extended from Brooklyn to Jamaica south of the line of hills. Instead of abandoning the area to remain in anonymity and the dullness of a farm, Pitkin transformed it to be a place where thousands of people could enjoy the excitement and promise of an urban environment. [4]


Image depicts Union Race Course, Woodhaven, in 1821.
Image depicts Union Race Course, Woodhaven, in 1821.

Pitkin himself was an extraordinary person with an amazing history. As a young adult, he worked in the South as a merchant for a company in Winchester, Connecticut. Upon his return to New York in 1832, he entered the dry goods trade and amassed a huge fortune within several years. By then, Pitkin found his purpose in life and decided to spend his wealth and energy in a meaningful way. With determination, commitment and a supply of capital, he sought to establish his dream city east of the great metropolis of New York and named it East New York. With all the necessary capital and characteristics of a successful businessman, Pitkin continued to buy up the farms from Dutch burghers, including Van Siclen, Wyckoff and Snedeker. In his dream village, he established streets, avenues, houses, factories, churches and schools and even a port for shipping on Jamaica Bay. He ensured that the factories were established in the western part and separated from the residential areas and parks built in the eastern part of his dream city. When Pitkin finally bought out all the farms, he named the eastern part of the city Woodville.

In 1835, Pitkin finally completed the purchase of all the farms and published maps showing streets and avenues as he did for East New York. He had the help of Martin B. Johnson, a surveyor, who explored the land and made maps for Pitkin. Pitkin gave the eastern part of the city the name Woodville and historians believed that Pitkin picked the name Woodville in order to honor the Wood family, landowners in the family.

However, there is no record of a Wood family of landowners in this district. The census of 1850 records shows that there were only four people, who were all tradesmen, named Wood in Jamaica. If Pitkin’s intent were to honor the local old families, he would have had to honor the Elderts, the Lotts, the Wyckoffs or the Van Wicklens. Pitkin might have just been suggested the name because of what he discovered with his purchase. The name Woodville just means “woods-town”. [5]

It was a challenge to maintain East New York which declined to its death after residents abandoned the area and seek other opportunities. Pitkin did not give up his ambition of landownership. About 15 years later, business revived and Pitkin regained his confidence in Woodville. In 1850, with few houses in the settlement either on or near Woodhaven Boulevard, Pitkin was determined to colonize Woodville but was denied official registration of the name because another Woodville had existed in New York. However, on July 30, 1853, he successfully registered and changed the name to Woodhaven. That same year, Woodville got its first newspaper, the Woodville Advertiser& Literary Gazette, a four-page, twice-monthly publication, which consisted of ads for real estate. Unfortunately, the newspaper lasted only a year because the settlement was still too small to support a newspaper. [6]

In the early stages, Woodhaven had approximately 60 residents with most of them from German, Italian and Irish backgrounds. Building activities were taking place and a school was started in 1853. John Sharpe, an English edge tool manufacturer, who came from Sheffield, England, and operated his own manufactory in Manhattan, came to Woodhaven and set up a small factory to make chisels. In 1854, about two dozen people mysteriously arrived from Hyde Park in Vermont, to the Woodhaven. Two other settlers moved to Woodhaven and began a shoe manufacturing business. In 1858, Pitkin founded the “Pitkin Institute”, a trade school to teach boys shoe-craft, and which today is called 95th Avenue University Place. [7]

The Growth of Woodhaven

Tremendous growth in industries was stimulated following the Civil War. The effects of European immigration had intensely impacted Brooklyn, which expanded east and south and a perfect climate for real estate developers and land speculators. So during the1880s and ‘90s, Woodhaven had an outbreak of a whole rash of “parks”: Ozone Park, Simpson Park, Wyckoff Park, Woodhaven Park, Belmont Park, Columbia Park, Napier Park, Elderts Park and Chester Park. Today, Ozone Park, which was developed between 1882 and 1884, is the only surviving park. Eventually, real estate was the cause for breaking up of the old Union Course or racetrack property and by 1910 it was covered with private residences. [8]

Queens Country Savings Bank at Jamaica Avenue and Woodhaven Blvd.
Queens Country Savings Bank at Jamaica Avenue and Woodhaven Blvd.


Woodhaven continued its expansion with three small developments in 1891 along the north side of Jamaica Avenue and extending up to Forest Park. The first development “Union Terrace” extended from Dexter Park at the Brooklyn border to 100 feet east of 79th street, while the second development “Belmont Park” covered 89th and 90th streets and ran from Jamaica Avenue north to Forest Park. The third development “Columbia Park” began 100 feet west of 91st Street and extended to Woodhaven Boulevard. The New York Community Bank (NYCB), formerly Columbia Federal Savings Bank (CFSB), is currently located on this site at the intersection of Woodhaven Boulevard and Jamaica Avenue. [9]

Other developments in Woodhaven included the “Brooklyn Manor”, comprising 603 building lots of 20 x 100 feet, was bordered by Jamaica Ave. on the south to Forest Park on the north and from Woodhaven Boulevard on the west to about 100 feet east of 96th Street. In 1900, “Forest Parkway” came on stream north of Jamaica Avenue and its success led to the creation of three other developments: “Forest Park East”, “Forest Park West”, and “Forest Park South”. In 1907, “Elderts Park’’, a large irregular tract covered much of the western end of Woodhaven, was created by the Yeagley Realty Company. It was bounded by Drew Avenue along the Brooklyn border, Liberty Avenue, 81street, 101st Avenue, 85th Street, 101st Avenue, 85th street and Rockaway Boulevard and Atlantic Avenue. The tract was empty of houses at the time of World War 1. “Napier Park” was the last development in the central Woodhaven. It consisted of 193 lots in 20, 25, and 40 fts. [10]

For Woodhaven, transportation was essential for its growth, and on April 18, 1836, the first Long Island Railroad train arrived at Union Course. For 30 years, it fulfilled the needs of the village, where on December 18, 1866 the line was extended to Jamaica Avenue. Later, on December 17, 1887, the first electric trolleys began tumbling through Woodhaven with a steam engine and a generator. When the LIRR was controlled by the Brooklyn Rapid Transit System in 1893, it was modernized with standard-sized cars and better power. Trolleys, however, continued operating along Jamaica Avenue until November 30, 1947. [11]

Another factor involved in the growth of Woodhaven can be attributed to Lalance & Grosjean Manufacturing Company, which made metal cooking utensils. In 1863, Grosjean bought a factory in Woodhaven and almost 20 years later his factory employed about half of Woodhaven’s residents. [12]

Transforming the Neighborhood

At the turn of the 20th century, Woodhaven and Ozone Park witnessed an explosive growth. There was cheap and reliable transportation and this contributed to the success of real estate promotion. In 1920s, home building was vigorously undertaken by real estate companies although it was moderately hindered by a shortage of building materials. The war had produced strains and dislocation, which soon subsided and times were changing with prosperity. Many returning servicemen got married and they came into the market looking for a home of their own. Couples living in Brooklyn were ready to start families in places like Woodhaven and Richmond Hill with the appealing idea of having one-family houses on open, tree-shaded streets. These returning veterans were brought up in the older crowded sections of the city, often in brownstones with dark, gloomy interiors. [13]

Gem Discounts and Closeouts at 84-33 Jamaica Avenue replaced Lewis of Woodhaven which closed recently after 68 years.
Gem Discounts and Closeouts at 84-33 Jamaica Avenue replaced Lewis of Woodhaven which closed recently after 68 years.

In addition, the private automobile, long considered special for only the rich, was becoming a crucial force in society and was now affordable for the ordinary family. Residents were no longer fully dependent on the railroad or local trolley line for transportation. For real estate, it meant that a family could be located in sub-divisions that were beyond the transit area. During the 1920s in Woodhaven, builders began to routinely put up garages in the backyard and to allow space for an alley between houses for access. However, strong political pressure had to be exerted to improve local roads because of the increased number of automobiles owned by residents and homeowners. [14]


The People of Woodhaven

Population

Woodhaven is one of the most diverse neighborhoods in the borough of Queens. The area have a mixture of Whites, African-Americans, Italians, Jamaicans, Asians, Indians, and so on. The population of Woodhaven is composed of 50.4% Whites, 7.6% Blacks , 19.2% Asian/Pacific Islanders, and 22.1% others. In terms of ethnicity, the population is composed of 46.8% Hispanics and 53.2% Non-Hispanics. As for gender, 48.5% of the population is male, while 51.5% is female. According to the 1990 census, the population of Woodhaven has grew by 30%.

The population in Woodhaven according to ethnicity.
The population in Woodhaven according to ethnicity.
The population in Woodhaven according to the United States 2000 census.
The population in Woodhaven according to the United States 2000 census.
The population in Woodhaven according to gender.
The population in Woodhaven according to gender.



Education

There are two public schools: PS. 60Q located at 91-02 88th Ave and PS 97Q located at 85-52 85th. A private school, St. Thomas The Apostle School is located at 87-49 87th Street. [15]

P.S. 60Q at 91-02 88th Avenue.
P.S. 60Q at 91-02 88th Avenue.

In Woodhaven, 24.3% of its residents have a high school degree, 10.8% have a bachelors degree, and 4.5% have a graduate degree.

Based on census statistics, when it comes to household income, about 5,199 residents fall in the $0-$50K range, 3,805 residents in the $50-$100K range, and 2,042 in the $100-$200K range. About 275 residents say they each make over $200,000 annually. [16]


The household income of the residents in Woodhaven.
The household income of the residents in Woodhaven.
The educational attainment of residents in Woodhaven.
The educational attainment of residents in Woodhaven.


Woodhaven Today

Famous writer Betty Davis in 1943 had lived in this Forest Parkway house, Woodhaven.
Famous writer Betty Davis in 1943 had lived in this Forest Parkway house, Woodhaven.

While New York City is a “melting pot” of cultures, Woodhaven, which is considered to be a mostly residential, semi-suburban neighborhood with a low-density population, conducts its commerce principally on Jamaica Avenue, which runs diagonally east to west and bisects Woodhaven. With the elevated J and Z subway lines roaring overhead and dozens of small shops stacked below, Jamaica Avenue in Woodhaven is a portrait of an old Queens shopping strip. Residents greet each other at these neighborhood stores, most of which have survived generations with ownership passed from parent to child. Local merchants offer reasonably priced food and merchan dise—from clothing and toys to hardware and laundries—to residents.

Hollywood actress Mae West had lived at 89-05 88th Street, Woodhaven, a landmark property.
Hollywood actress Mae West had lived at 89-05 88th Street, Woodhaven, a landmark property.

But the recent economic downturn has taken its toll on neighborhood businesses, which are hard-pressed to provide good service and remain profitable. One of the oldest and well-known stores in this neighborhood, Lewis’ of Woodhaven became a victim of the Wall Street collapse. After 68 years in business, it recently closed both of its locations because of high rentals for its 10,000 square foot warehouse and after being displaced by the giant Duane Reade drugstore. Established in 1933 by Julius Lewis, this store was the epicenter of the commercial strip, offering everything from hardware to groceries at bargain prices. Local folks have dubbed the variety store an icon. Marie Clark, who has been a resident of the neighborhood for more than 20 years, said she is saddened about the closure because she always buys all her supplies from this neighborhood store. “I believe in supporting our business because they depend on us and we depend on them. It’s a real shame to see Lewis’ go. I will miss shopping here,” Ms. Clark said.

Franklin K. Lane High School is next to Dexter Park and the Cypress Hill cemetery in Woodhaven.
Franklin K. Lane High School is next to Dexter Park and the Cypress Hill cemetery in Woodhaven.
Woodhaven Park Estates at 89-15 Woodhaven Blvd, once Columbia Park, was redeveloped recently.
Woodhaven Park Estates at 89-15 Woodhaven Blvd, once Columbia Park, was redeveloped recently.

With mainly one-to-two-family Victorian and Colonial homes and the median home sales price at $450,000, Woodhaven households also include several first-generation war veterans. Many of these homes are over 120 years old and homeowners have been asked to remodel and beautify their properties to ensure their stability and safety. One of the oldest and still surviving structures in Woodhaven is the home located at 87-20 88th Street, which, in 1920, had to move from Jamaica Avenue due to the construction of the J elevated subway system. Besides the J and Z trains which cater for the neighborhood’s transportation needs, the Long Island Rail Road (LIRR) train zooms across Jamaica Avenue not far away and many major bus routes zip zaps across Woodhaven including the express QM15, QM16, QM17, QM 18, QM21, QM23 and QM24 and local Q11 and Q53. [17]


One of Signage at Forest Parkway to welcome visitors to Forest Park in Woodhaven.
One of Signage at Forest Parkway to welcome visitors to Forest Park in Woodhaven.

As for recreation, Woodhaven, with its abundance of trees and open space, seems to provide ample opportunities for residents to enjoy the outdoors. Forest Park, one of New York City’s biggest parks, is known for its golf course, tennis courts, band-shell, carousel, playgrounds, athletic fields and wooded parkland, is the most sought place for joggers, picnickers, fun seekers and sports training. In addition, Forest Park is the venue where the Queens Borough Orchestra and the New York Philharmonic present symphony, jazz and other music events. The Metropolitan Opera, Big Apple Circus and other organizations stage recreational activities in the famous Bandshell within the park. Forest Park also has nature trails and over 500 acres of land that stretches between the cemetery belt, Kew Gardens, Union Turnpike and Glendale and Park Lane South in Woodhaven and Richmond Hill. The city bought up many acres of unused property which it used to create the park. Woodhaven has remained as one of the preserved areas of Queens with traces of its history still in sight. [18]


The once popular Dexter Park had been demolished and is now being renovated.
The once popular Dexter Park had been demolished and is now being renovated.

Another important park was Dexter Park baseball field just east of Franklin K. Lane High School in Woodhaven which had once occupied 10 acres of land with playgrounds, bowling alleys, a carousel and a dance hall. It made baseball history in 1930, when the first engineered lighting system for night games was installed and later became a 15,000-seat park with a steel grandstand. Woodhaven has remained as one of the preserved areas of Queens with traces of its history still in sight. [19]

Other attractions in Woodhaven include an annual motorcycle parade on Woodhaven Boulevard to commemorate the bravery of War Veterans. During the parade, the Salvation Army collects donations and toys for the winter holidays, when it helps needy children in depressed countries. A street fair in appreciation of the cultural diversity of Woodhaven residents is held every year on Jamaica Avenue. Among notable current and former residents of Woodhaven are George Gershwin, composer of many famous show-tunes; Betty Smith, author; Barry Sullivan, film and television star; and Fred Trump, father of the famous Donald Trump and real estate developer. Betty Smith is well known for her work “A Tree Grows in Brooklyn”. Her house is still intact and is located across the street of Woodhaven Library.


Testimonials from Woodhaven Residents

Arthur Benson, 78, who had lived in Woodhaven for almost 50 years, had seen the neighborhood transformed. He said that when he moved to live there, the residents were consisted of many European immigrants who settled for the factory jobs and raised a family. “I cannot fathom to live anywhere else because Woodhaven has so much to offer. It’s a quiet place and I like to go to Forest Park to enjoy all the outdoor and recreational activities. There is no other place in Queens that can give me that kind of satisfaction,” Mr. Benson, who walks with the help of a cane, said. Mr. Benson, whose wife, Dorothy died from cancer about six years ago after they shared a partnership of 55 years, is a war veteran and is proud to have served the United States after a tour of duty in Vietnam. He said that he will still keep his home but felt sad that many of his friends are no longer around because they either died or moved to

There is also Margaret Kelly, a 35-year-old mother and an accountant. She does not like what she observes about the changing neighborhood. “I have always liked to live in this neighborhood because I can take the J train and arrive in a short time at my job which is just a few blocks from my downtown stop. But now I notice many changes on my block and many people from Latin America are gradually moving in. This makes me nervous because I notice that many unemployed young people are now walking in the street, which can lead to crimes,” she remarked, with a sigh of sadness. Mrs. Kelly, a divorcee, who has two young children, would like to move to another neighborhood where she says she wants to enroll her children in better school. However, she said that she may not manage to do so right now, because of the depressing economy and she may not find affordable rent elsewhere.

On the other hand, Alex Ruiz, a Hispanic who just graduated from college, said he likes the neighborhood because it offers him a good life. Mr. Ruiz was quick to name Forest Park as a remarkable place where he can find extreme comfort from playing games to jogging, attending open-air concerts or just hanging out with his friends. In addition, he points out that he can save his money because the rent is cheaper than elsewhere. “As a young person, living in Woodhaven will be ideal for me. I can save my money to pay off college loans and to buy my own home in the future,” he added.

Concluding Thoughts

Forest Park gives to its residents and visitors a chance to relax and get away from the pressures of everyday life.
Forest Park gives to its residents and visitors a chance to relax and get away from the pressures of everyday life.

Essentially covering residents in postal zip code of 11421, Woodhaven today has a population which consists of not only Europeans and Hispanics but also small numbers of Asians and African-Americans who have moved and settled here with their families. Whites are 18,054 or 47.9% of the population, while Hispanics are 16,414 or 43.6%, Asians 5,155 or 13.7% and African Americans 1,949 or 5.3%. (4). Woodhaven’s strong appeal lies in the fact that it offers affordable housing to a large number of tenants and beautiful parks to city residents as well as its easy access to public transportation, shopping and basic services. Besides, there has been a spike in the Woodhaven population growth since 1990 which has resulted from more immigrants coming into the neighborhood. This surge has been a source of concern for many long-time residents who have decided to relocate to other neighborhoods. Because of this demographic phenomenon, there are a series of illegal tenements springing up in different sections of the neighborhood. However, in order to address this situation and diminish illegal tenement, landlords will have to create more affordable housing on a much larger scale.

Woodhaven Library, which is easily accessible to its residents, is located near Woodhaven Strip.
Woodhaven Library, which is easily accessible to its residents, is located near Woodhaven Strip.

For me, the research has provided a wonderful insight about how neighborhoods are established. To know that land ownership could change over many years and that each owner had a different vision regarding the use of land is remarkable. Perhaps, Woodhaven would not have come about had it not been for the remarkable Connecticut real estate investor John R. Pitkin, who wanted residents of his community to enjoy the outdoors.

Park Lane South - A cool drive along Forest Park in Woodhaven.
Park Lane South - A cool drive along Forest Park in Woodhaven.

Although Woodhaven has come a long way and is providing one of the best recreational accommodation through its amazing parks, it still needs to encourage the creation of more industries or businesses which could offer employment to many of its residents. In addition, many of its homes and structures seem to be in dire need of modernization. By increasing affordable housing accommodation, it would encourage more city workers, who’re desirous of avoiding the high Manhattan rent rates, to come and live in the neighborhood. An increase in population would motivate and attract major business franchises which could inject a large amount of economic stimulus through their businesses in this neighborhood. Landlords with buildings along the main shopping district on Jamaica Avenue should offer cheaper rents to attract businesses to keep the space occupied rather than to have empty storefronts and hold out for high rents. Besides its major commerce being conducted along Jamaica Avenue and Woodhaven Boulevard, Woodhaven could open other streets to commercial activities.

While Woodhaven has a modest population with ethnic diversity compared with other Queens neighborhoods such as Flushing, Jackson Heights, Richmond Hill and Astoria with high ethnic enclaves, it has managed to retain its recreational flavor, which is exactly what its founder John R. Pitkin had in mind.

References

  1. Seyfried, Vincent F. (1985). The Story of Woodhaven and Ozone Park Woodhaven: Queens Community Series
  2. Seyfried, Vincent F. (1985). The Story of Woodhaven and Ozone Park Woodhaven: Queens Community Series
  3. Seyfried, Vincent F. (1985). The Story of Woodhaven and Ozone Park Woodhaven: Queens Community Series
  4. Seyfried, Vincent F. (1985). The Story of Woodhaven and Ozone Park Woodhaven: Queens Community Series
  5. Seyfried, Vincent F. (1985). The Story of Woodhaven and Ozone Park Woodhaven: Queens Community Series
  6. Seyfried, Vincent F. (1985). The Story of Woodhaven and Ozone Park Woodhaven: Queens Community Series
  7. Seyfried, Vincent F. (1985). The Story of Woodhaven and Ozone Park Woodhaven: Queens Community Series
  8. Seyfried, Vincent F. (1985). The Story of Woodhaven and Ozone Park Woodhaven: Queens Community Series
  9. Seyfried, Vincent F. (1985). The Story of Woodhaven and Ozone Park Woodhaven: Queens Community Series
  10. Seyfried, Vincent F. (1985). The Story of Woodhaven and Ozone Park Woodhaven: Queens Community Series
  11. Seyfried, Vincent F. (1985). The Story of Woodhaven and Ozone Park Woodhaven: Queens Community Series
  12. http://www.queenslibrary.org/index.aspx?page_nm=CL-Communityinfo&branch_id=WN
  13. Seyfried, Vincent F. (1985). The Story of Woodhaven and Ozone Park Woodhaven: Queens Community Series
  14. Seyfried, Vincent F. (1985). The Story of Woodhaven and Ozone Park Woodhaven: Queens Community Series
  15. <http://www.amny.com/news/local/am-cityliving0913,0,292054.story?page=1>
  16. <http://realestate.nytimes.com/community/woodhaven-queens-ny-usa/demographics>
  17. Wikipedia Web Site 2009. “Woodhaven Queens” March 22, 2009 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woodhaven,_Queens
  18. Forgotten New York Web Site 2007 “Woodhaven” February 25, 2007 http://www.forgotten-ny.com/NEIGHBORHOODS/woodhaven/woodhaven.html
  19. Forgotten New York Web Site 2007 “Woodhaven” February 25, 2007 http://www.forgotten-ny.com/NEIGHBORHOODS/woodhaven/woodhaven.html

This page was created by Christina Parasnath

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