From The Peopling of New York City
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Visiting an Italian Restaurant
Food is often a way to share and connect with others, and the Italian culture is no exception to this custom. We can discern the importance of food as a way to interact with one another in this particular culture. We visited Portobello Cafe, located on 4221 Hylan Boulevard in the Great Kills section of Staten Island. We, a group of eight, entered the restaurant with the desire to immerse ourselves in Italian culture through the means of ethnic foodways, and we were not disappointed.
The Menu
The food of the restaurant incorporates authentic elements of Italian cuisine. The restaurant utilizes ingredients found in both Northern and Southern Italian cooking. One dish featured is the Roasted Portabella Pasta; portabella mushrooms are native to Northern Italy. The ingredients and sauces stayed true to what authentic Italian food offers, which allows us to properly take part in this culture, in a sense.
Another dish is Tortellini Carbonara, a pasta dish with a creamy Parmesan cheese sauce, and pieces of prosciutto (ham). Both prosciutto and tortellini come from Bologna, located in Northern Italy. Italy is known for its food diversity; different regions of Italy are known for different foods. Tortellini Carbonara is an example of this diversity. Dishes from Southern Italy would include more seafood. This dish shows how Italians bring their culture and food with them when they come to America. The fact that many Italian American restaurants serve food from all regions of Italy shows how the Italian communities are composed of a diverse group of Italians, not only Italians from Sicily or Bologna.
The Decor
The décor of the restaurant is rather modern. The restaurant utilizes mahogany wood for its tables, bar, floors, shutters and doors, adding to the warm ambience of the restaurant. The artwork does not represent any particular style of Italian painting, although one diner noted the similarities to one scene with that of Naples. One may find upon closer examination photographs of Staten Island throughout the years, allowing for diners to travel back into different time periods in the borough. Overall, the restaurant retains a more ethnically neutral vibe, while infusing elements of Italian and Staten Island culture into its decor.
Interesting Syncretisms
Portobello Cafe features a seasonally rotating menu; the restaurant will change the featured dishes depending on the time of year. This practice is unlike many establishments in the United States. The reason for this cycle is so that the chefs can utilize certain ingredients when they are at their peak, and for their customers to experience only the best quality when it comes to their meal.
Although The Portobello Café serves Italian food, several aspects of the institution cater to local food culture. As our entrees were served, we noted the size of our meals. Large portion sizes are distinctly American and were noticeably adopted at this restaurant. The menu included several specialties with Italian names, but offered descriptions of each item for the unfamiliar patron. One item on the menu was named “Da Best Steak”, channeling local colloquialisms associated with Italian Americans and Staten Islanders in general.